Life casting the model/actor

The first step in any prosthetic design to take a 'duplicate positive casting of the performers face or body part" Kehoe,v.1991

This casting will then be made into a permanent mould using plaster or stone and will enable the makeup artist to sculpt using clay for the design required.

The first step when casting the model/actor is to ensure they are well prepped for the process and have protective clothing on at all times. When casting the face, the eyebrows and eyelashes should be coated in Vaseline, men should be clean shaven, a bald cap should have been made prior to starting and place over hair, ensuring all the hair is tucked under. Should the person being cast have any piercings these should be removed. The area for casting should also be well prepped with covers in the floor, extractor fans, all products should be lined up and easily accessible and you as the makeup artist should be protected with overalls, plastic gloves and sensible flat shoes.  This is all standard Heath and safety and should be adhered to to avoid any accidents.  

Image 1

Image 2

Once the actor/model has been prepped, the moulding process can begin.  As shown image 2 aliginate is weighed and placed into a clean plastic bowl.  Alginate is a material that is easy to prepare and apply and is used for facial, body and dental impressions. For facial life casting, the amount of alginate needed will be 300grams.  This amount should provide enough mould to cover the face and neck successfully.  The powder will then be mixed with water at a ratio of 1:1 or 1:2 powder to water.  Therefore for 300 grams of alginate powder, 300 grams or 600 grams of cold water should be used. 

The next step is to start adding the water to the powder, this must be done a little at a time but at a steady pace as the aliginate has a very short setting time.  The setting timed the powder that is being used is determined on whether the cast is being made of the face or body, for example, when casting the face alginate with a shorter setting time can be used as the area is smaller and can be covered quickly. It also means that the model/actor isn't in the mould for too long.

To create a successful mould, the powder and water should be needed together until it becomes the right consistency. This should be inbetween a dough and a paste you mixture.

Once mixed the aliginate must be applied to the model/actor immediately.  It is advisable to work as a pair to apply the mixture, each person taking one side of the face as the mixture as mentioned previously sets very quickly.  Factors including the temperature of the room and the body heat will mean the mould sets quicker.  Start by applying the alginate to top of the head, if mixed correctly the aliginate will start to run down the face.  Push the alginate into the eye area, advising the model/actor to keep their eyes and mouth closed at all times.  Keep on Applying the mixture to the face, scooping up any running material as you go along. It is important to have a third person who can 'spot the nostrils' while the mixture is applied, the mould will cover the mouth completely and therefore the Basel passage must be clear. Ensure the whole of the area that is being cast is completely covered with a thick layer of the alginate and the edges are kept thick as this will stop the mould from tearing when it is removed.   

 Alginate is a flexible material and if removed on its own will tear and fold and will become un-usable.  Therefore a jacket using mod rock must be placed around the mould before it is removed.  Mod rock is a material made of plaster that is then attached to gauze and more commonly used for plaster casts on broken limbs. The mod rock is placed into clean cold or Luke warm water, rubbed together between the hands and then the water is gently squeezed from it.  The mod rock should be wet but not saturated as it will not dry on the cast properly.

Apply the first strip to the forehead, folding the edge back to make a thicker rim around the edge of the cast.  The second strip should be applied to under the chin and around the sides of the face.  Continue until the whole face is covered. Apply second layers around the edges to stabilise the cast.  With a small piece of the mod rock, create a spine down the nose and across the bridge.

The mod rock should then be left to set, this takes approximately 5 minutes.  During this time ensure the model/actor is still comfortable. The nasal airway should still be clean. Once set the cast can be removed.  Again it is advisable to remove the cast as a pair.

Asking the model/actor to lean forward as gravity will play a part in the removal, advise them to start moving their face around, stretching the mouth and cheeks, screwing up the face will help to release the mould.  Using your finger or a spatula, gently run it around the outside of the mould to help break the seal. Gently wiggle the cast away from the face being careful to not pull or tear the mould the face should be released from the cast.

You should now have a negative of the the model/actors face